Is Fortaleza the Pappy Van Winkle of Tequila?

|Benjamin Smith
Is Fortaleza the Pappy Van Winkle of Tequila?

Few brands are shaping the conversation around agave spirits like Tequila Fortaleza. Revived by Guillermo Erickson Sauza in the town of Tequila, Jalisco, the brand is meticulously restoring 19th-century methods, from traditional tahona milling to open-air fermentation, at Destilería La Fortaleza (NOM 1493). Their uncompromising commitment to 19th-century methods eschews mass production, elevating the tequila's status to a highly coveted spirit that frequently commands premium prices.

The Sauza Family Legacy

Guillermo Erickson Sauza represents the fifth generation of a revered tequila dynasty. He is the great-great-grandson of Don Cenobio Sauza, often referred to as the “Father of Tequila,” who founded the Sauza brand in 1873 and was the first to export tequila to the United States. In the late 1990s, Guillermo began restoring his family's historic, century-old facility, Destilería La Fortaleza, which sits on a hillside above the town of Tequila, in Jalisco, Mexico. By the early 2000s, he successfully commenced producing spirits using long-abandoned, small-batch methods.

Guillermo Erickson Sauza

Guillermo's mission was straightforward but radical: to prove that slow, manual, traditional methods still yield the most complex and expressive tequila. This passion project is known in Mexico as Tequila Los Abuelos (The Grandfathers), a tribute to his ancestors, while export markets know the spirit as Fortaleza, named for the stone "fortress" structure overlooking the property.

How Fortaleza Tequila Is Made

Fortaleza Tequila uses entirely artisanal methods, beginning with mature blue Weber agave from the Tequila Valley, harvested at peak ripeness, and slow-cooked for up to 36 hours in a traditional stone/brick oven (horno). Instead of modern crushers, the cooked piñas are gently crushed by a two-ton volcanic stone tahona, ensuring that the resulting mosto (agave juice) retains some agave fiber. The juice is then moved to open-air pine wood vats for a slow, natural fermentation, which builds crucial complexity and mineral nuance. The spirit is double-distilled in small copper pot stills to preserve the rich, heavy aromas and mouthfeel. This commitment to no shortcuts—using natural spring water and eschewing diffusers or additives—is why Fortaleza is renowned for its traditional, additive-free quality, right down to its distinctive hand-blown bottles and agave-shaped stopper.

Why Fortaleza Tequila Matters

Fortaleza arrived at a moment when industrial processes and additives had become commonplace in the tequila industry. Its refusal to simplify the complex flavor of pure agave, and its insistence on using traditional methods, reset expectations for what agave spirits could be. Bartenders used it as an educational tool, often pouring it blind to showcase, "This is what tequila is supposed to taste like." Enthusiasts began tracking batches like rare vintages. This ripple effect prompted bigger distillers to revisit tahona programs and transparency, cementing Fortaleza's place on every shortlist of the best tequila brands, judged purely by craft and taste, not marketing or celebrity ownership.

The "Pappy Van Winkle of Tequila"

Fortaleza's dedication to traditional methods and craftsmanship is an inherently labor-intensive and time-consuming process. This artisanal approach informs Fortaleza’s cult status yet also means their production often falls short of surging global demand. The resulting limited supply ensures that allocations disappear quickly and certain bottles command significant secondary premiums. As a result, Fortaleza is often called the “Pappy Van Winkle of tequila,” a reference to the highly sought-after bourbon known for its extended aging process that limits production and creates similar supply bottlenecks, thus driving its immense value and reputation.

Fortaleza's Line of Tequilas

Fortaleza's core range offers four definitive expressions. The Blanco (40% ABV) is the benchmark: pure agave with lime zest, green olive, wet stone, and white pepper—perfect for sipping or cocktails. The Blanco Still Strength (46% ABV) is bottled at a higher proof for a bolder, more rustic profile, amplifying the oils, citrus peel, and mineral finish. The Reposado (40% ABV) is rested for six to nine months in ex-bourbon barrels, with the light oak adding notes of honeyed agave, vanilla bean, and baked fruit. Finally, the Anejo (40% ABV) spends 18 to 24 months in used American oak, developing richer flavors of toffee, roasted pineapple, and baking spice while always retaining its essential agave core.

Beyond the standard offerings, Fortaleza also produces highly-allocated special releases. The annual Winter Blend and occasional special casks explore unique maturation using American, French, or sherry-seasoned oak to introduce complexity while maintaining the core Fortaleza profile. Fortaleza often sources used whiskey barrels from such American distilleries as Buffalo Trace, Heaven Hill and Jack Daniel's. These small drops generate extremely high demand. For collectors hunting these bottles, it is essential to track specific lot numbers and personal tasting notes, as each annual blend is unique and should be treated like a distinct vintage.

How To Find Fortaleza Tequila

Fortaleza Tequila lands in waves and sells out quickly. If you want a consistent house pour, prioritize Blanco. If you want power and texture, chase Blanco Still Strength. If you collect, monitor seasonal releases and reputable retailers rather than secondary pricing. Fortaleza doesn’t chase scarcity for scarcity’s sake. Their limited volume is a by-product of NOM 1493’s commitment to craftsmanship and quality.

Fortaleza didn’t just bring back a style; it brought back standards. In a market crowded with shortcuts, it proved that brick ovens, tahona, open ferments, and copper stills still matter. This is why bottles vanish, why bartenders keep it on the back-bar, and why the “Pappy” comparison lands with readers: painstaking method plus limited output equals outsized demand—and a tequila that tastes unmistakably of the Valley.

Photographs courtesy of Tequila Fortaleza.

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